It was if Ford’s marketing department traded the gorgeous soul of the car for sales glory. To many, the 1958-1960 “Squarebird” Thunderbirds were a totally disappointing follow up to the original two seat Thunderbirds. While this original is likely too nice to turn into a race car, would this $21,500 black beauty be the perfect car to slide sideways through life in? Thanks to T.J. If you are looking for a cool Thunderbird with the surprising ability to hustle, then check out this 1960 Ford Thunderbird coupe for sale on craigslist in Vanderwagen, Arizona. From the moment I saw that video, my opinion of “Squarebirds” has changed immensely. In it, a former Holman-Moody built 1959 Ford Thunderbird absolutely laid waste to all the sedans in its race before being flagged for an exhaust issue. Five years ago, a video from the event went viral. It is a combination of racing, a huge concours, and an overwhelming deep dive into automotive history. You can find shops and car dealers that offer BG services and chemicals at Goodwood Revival is one of the biggest bucket list events in the collector car world. ![]() Dip in the DOT 3 or 4 fluid and if the color changes it is time to do a fluid exchange. They might also sell you a container of the fluid test strips they might get from BG. Or buy the hose P/N you see on the drawing. Ask to see their hose so you can measure it. Just find a service shop that offers the BG service using either machine and ask them to order the individual adaptor for you to fit your vehicle, or the whole Completer Kit if necessary. Probably the new kit is the same as the old one. It is not likely to pop off like when putting a hose directly on a small nipple.īelow is a picture of the BG adaptors plus the Completer Kit that includes them and the hose. And the silicone hose they use is semi-clear so you can see bubbles or a color change if it is old and greenish brown. Good if the nipples are rounded or very tight. It provided a larger, more wrench-friendly hex. On my personal vehicles I had a short piece of that hose going into a mayonnaise jar so I could get a good look at the old fluid. ![]() It fits tight enough so it will not fall out when bleeding. The other end is a round hole into which you put a silicone hose that came with the machine. In the included PF7 adaptor kit PF9000C (new version is E100-2475) were seven bleeder adaptors to fit fractional and metric bleeder nipples. They have a newer one now, I don't know the P/N. Many years ago when I was a BG rep, the machine was the PF7. The automotive chemical company BG Products sells professional brake fluid exchange machines. Regarding putting wrenches on bleeder nipples, here is a tip. Any advice or suggestions would be most welcome. I was thinking we're all so use to disc brakes these days that maybe I've forgotten that's the way it is with drum brakes. And the brakes stop the car but not suddenly or abruptly. The second question is is it not uncommon for the brake pedal to travel four to six inches or so before engaging? It doesn't go to the floor, I have maybe two inches or so before I'd hit the floorboard. I think the only thing left is the power brake booster, but that's under the dash and I don't want to take on that major job unless I know for sure that is the only thing left that it can be. Without taking the wheels off there is no evidence of leaking wheel cylinders and no leaks coming from the master cylinder. After doing all this I saw no improvement. An odd place to put the bleeder valve so close to suspension parts.Īnyway, the pedal was spongy and went almost to the floor when I started. I tried flared nut wrenches as well as standard open-end wrenches with no luck. I did not bleed the front wheels because I could not get a wrench on the bleeder valve. Hardly any from the second wheel which tells me I got most of the air out of the lines. This weekend I replaced the master cylinder, adjusted brakes and bled the brakes.
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